TRAVELS WITH BC, et al: DAY FOUR--ILE D'ORLEANS

Because my country boy has been trapped in the city for a few days, I thought it best that we join a ship excursion to the Ile d'Orleans this afternoon. The island, located in the Saint Lawrence River, embraces its historic and rural past. Since 1970, when the Ile was declared an historic area, most types of development have been kept safely on the mainland...and that's just the way they like it.

In all honesty, we're a bit skeptical about ship excursions, although we've scheduled a few for this cruise...mainly those that will let us see or experience something we couldn't do otherwise. However, this primary (oh...in so many ways) colored sign dangling over our heads reminds us why we haven't cruised for a number of years.

Shortly after everyone gathered under the sign and, actually turned to each other asking, "Is this where we're supposed to be?" we were led to our buses and met our specific tour guide. Ours actually lives on the Ile, so I think we have an expert. We quickly drove out of Quebec City, crossed the Pont de I'lle d'Orleans, and found ourselves in the midst of lush forests just beginning to test their fall finery, interspersed with rich, dark farmland. There are six small villages on the Ile, each of which, reportedly, has its own distinct personality. Our first stop was St. Jean, originally populated by river pilots and navigators, who built their rather small, but charming homes with bricks brought back from Europe as ballast.

We'll be stopping at the Manoir Mauvide-Genest, built in 1734 as the home of Jean Mauvide who was surgeon to Louis XV although, frankly, if I understood our tour guide correctly, his medical training was a bit sketchy. The home itself was lovely, obviously built in stages, and a definite point of pride for the Quebecoise.

This couple were our guides at the Manoir. She was very nice but speaking English was a definite struggle for her. I finally woke up to the fact that until the 1930s (when the bridge was built between the mainland and the island) the Ile inhabitants could live a full and happy lifetime without ever venturing beyond their shores. Our guides had grown up on the island, attended school here, and did it all in perfect French.

After our tour of the Manoir, we climbed back into the bus and headed for the Sugar Shack where we would learn about the art of producing maple syrup. We'd actually had that lesson in Vermont, but this was part of the excursion and it picked up quite a bit when we got to the tasting.

First, our maple syrup guide poured thin strips of maple syrup onto this crushed ice where it semi-hardened fast.

Next, BC began to roll up the syrup on a tongue depressor. Being a retired vet, he handled the stick and maple syrup like a pro.

His was so good, we quickly rolled another. It made me think of a Sugar Daddy...my all time favorite candy at our local movie theatre back in the day.

The Sugar Shack was a mile or so from the main road hidden in a beautiful wooded area. It was quiet, still and had that faintly damp feel of autumn. Wonderful.

After we left the Sugar Shack we re-crossed the Pont and landed once again on the mainland for a view of the impressive Montmorency Falls. But, first, we were ushered into the Montmorency Manoir located just next to the falls. This pretty home once housed Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria's father. Actually, before meeting Queen Victoria's mother, Prince Edward cozied up here with a young Quebec girl, reputedly gorgeous, named Alphonsine. They co-habitated here from 1791 to 1794 producing (perhaps) an older brother to Queen Victoria. Sweet Alphonsine was a Catholic, so even if they had married at some point it would not have been legal. Thus, rumor has it that during her entire reign, Victoria sent money and other goodies to this older half brother to keep him both in Quebec and silent.

We enjoyed a spot of tea and this attractive little goodie. Please excuse the crumbs and, yes, it was very good.

Montmorency Falls...Actually they seem to have fallen out of the picture on the right hand side. They are higher than Niagara Falls, but not nearly as wide.

One can walk across the falls on a sturdy bridge (which we did) and look back at Prince Edward's hide-away, and the Quebec City skyline in the background. Nothing is very far from anything else in this part of the world.

We've rushed back to the ship, nearly missed the emergency drill which doesn't require life jackets anymore, found a nearby bar, ordered our wine, and elbowed our way to the railing at the aft of the ship. Good-bye Quebec City.