DAY SEVEN--CHARLOTTETOWN, PEI

Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, is perhaps best known as the setting for the Anne of Green Gables book series from long ago.  I remember reading, or trying to read, Anne of Green Gables, but just not getting into it.  In retrospect, I think it was because Anne was a little orphan who (by mistake) was sent to live with an elderly couple on a remote farm in Canada.  Now, how unnerving was that.  I was much more taken with Nancy Drew who, with her trusty friends and slick roadster, not to mention a great deal of unsupervised time, solved some pretty scary mysteries.  In all honesty, I don't even remember finishing Anne's story.  I was shallow even then. 

As BC and I studied the twelve excursions offered in Charlottetown by Holland America, we quickly passed up any that involved Anne of Green Gables shopping, the Anne of Green Gables homestead,the Anne of Green Gables Museum, or any Anne of Green Gables impersonators, and decided to explore Charlottetown on our own.  It's quite easy to do.

The ship docks right about here, Confederation Landing Park, and it's a beautiful jumping off point for the town itself.  We stopped at the Visitor Information Center, which was a bustling place, picked up our walking map, chose our route (The Heritage Walk) and headed up Great George Street... 

...where we very quickly came upon St. Dunstan's Basilica.  The church has been here, in one form or another, since 1721, but this impressive basilica was built in 1919, and praised as the "largest and most fire-resistant cathedral in the Maritimes."  I don't know about that, but it is a gorgeous building.  We need to tip-toe out now as we're disrupting Mass. 

I have surprised myself (and would have bowled over my mother) by this interest I have with visiting churches on our journeys.  I am indeed turning into my mother's daughter.  She lost more than one travel companion by insisting on visiting every church they might walk or drive by.   This dark, intimate space, attached to the larger St. Peter's Church is known as All Souls' Chapel.  Mass has been celebrated here daily since 1890.  It's nearly as faded as it looks in this poor photo, and covered in art work, stained glass and elaborately carved dark wood.  It feels very real and sincere.   

I think I mentioned early in this series that BC has a strong penchant for frugality.  I can admire that trait...to a point, but, whereas I'm wandering and planning a wonderful lunch in one of the many quaint restaurants high-lighted on our walking map, BC is suddenly drawn to the scent of charcoal at the local fire department.  Yes, they're holding a fund raiser to finance a remodel of an older section of their building.  Yes, sausage and/or hot dogs are being served.  Yes, the donation is three Canadian dollars per sausage or hot dog.  "YES," said BC, looking quite smug as he purchased our lunch.

 It's not his most flattering photo, but it does show what can bring happiness to a frugal person and, as so often happens when I'm with him, this unexpected stop turned into pure serendipity when a couple of a certain age asked if they could join us at our table.  She was a native of Charlottetown while he had moved here a few years ago when the two were married.  He loves Charlottetown and can't stop talking about it.  She smiles patiently, encourages his stories and occasionally corrects him with gentle kindness.  We enjoyed them tremendously and learned such interesting things about this historic port.  I will always think of them when I remember Charlottetown.

 

I did enjoy Charlottetown and wanted to linger at each point on our map, but we were barely halfway through the Historic Walk, and our afternoon was ticking away.

This lovely home is Beaconsfield, and is not dissimilar from many of the homes we've walked past.  Sadly, it's not for sale, but we did find a beauty a block or so away on the market for a mere one million Canadian dollars.  It had eight bedrooms.  We could open a bed and breakfast.  We could offer gourmet dinners (prepared and served by students from the Culinary Institute located conveniently across the street).  We would live happily ever after.  We were briefly insane.

 The tide is out but, even so, living on the water would be lovely.   

It's just about time to return to the Eurodam.  We're enjoying a little snack of Canadian Fries in a pub recently visited by Wills and Kate on their Canadian tour.  Perhaps we sat at the same table they did during their few minutes here.  I hope they had time to enjoy this view as much as we did.  Considering how slim and trim Kate is, I do know she wasn't filling her face with the Canadian version of French fries like we were.  

 I'm actually hating to leave.  We need to come back here, BC, rent a car and drive over all the island.  You know you're just the guy I'd like to do that with.

  I would love to know how to do this.  I suppose there are directions somewhere on the internet, but my plate is rather full at the moment.  I think I'll just enjoy the little animals our sweet Cabin Steward creates and not worry about it.