Tuesday, September 6, 2011

DUBLIN TO KILKENNY

With only one or two U-Turns to correct navigational mistakes, we quickly entered the Motorway from the Dublin Airport.  We are headed to the Irish National Stud...at BC's request.  I hadn't read much about the National Stud, so I was simply along for the ride on this one.

We left the M-7 and found ourselves on the little byways of Ireland that are so full of charm, potholes and flowering hedges...that seem extremely close to the passenger side of the car.  Then, between screams of "You're too close", "You're going to run into the curb",  I spotted our first really scenic site.  And, to be honest, we found "scenic sites" all through Ireland--but the first one is always special.


Immediately we remembered why we chose driving and scheduling ourselves over the convenience and non-hassle of a tour!  We pulled over and sat at a little picnic table, enjoying the view, the clear air and the time to simply be.  These ruins date from the 1200s and played their role in area politics down through the centuries.  Cromwell and his forces visited this castle and its nearby town in 1650 leaving both  in much worse condition than they found them.  We found that to be a common theme throughout Ireland.

Under a threatening sky, we crawled back into our little car and continued toward Kildare and the National Stud.  Despite the ever present problem of "where are the d----- signs?", we eventually came to it and, much to BC's surprise and my astonishment, the National Stud was much more than, well, a National Stud.  Home to the finest Japanese Gardens in Europe, the gorgeous St. Fiachra's Garden, The Horse Museum, a working stud farm in business since 1900, and a really great restaurant. The Irish National Stud provided a full day of activities.  At least for us... 

Since we had time before the next tour, we approached the Japanese Gardens.  I fully expected a replay of Japanese Gardens we'd seen in the US, but this presentation was a totally different concept.  These gardens were built around a story, "The Life of Man."  At the beginning, we had the option of two paths.  One labelled "Easy", the other labelled "Hard."  We, of course, being hardy souls, chose the Hard Path, and tentatively entered the "Gate of Oblivion".  From there we found our way to the "Cave of Birth" and the "Tunnel of Ignorance" (childhood), but before we got out of the "Tunnel of Ignorance" we were in trouble.  Two exits and no idea which was correct.  Thus began our journey through life that led us forward, backward, and sideways; confused us; frustrated us; and eventually made me think, "Hey! This is really like life...I get it!"  It was a fascinating experience and I would love to do it again.  Hopefully, the next time we could find the "Well of Wisdom" and the" Garden of Peace and Contentment." 



Generally speaking, in my world, if you've seen one stud you've seen them all, but this tour was most interesting and light-hearted and, according to our tour guide,  this beautiful horse is THE STUD of Ireland and a very busy boy.  BC, of course, loved it all.  The old retired veterinarian was full of questions and fascinated by the similarities, as well as the differences, of EU regulations and equine practices between Ireland and the U.S.

We wandered the grounds for awhile vainly trying to follow the map we'd been given, only to find ourselves repeatedly lost and found.  Ireland's maps and lack of signage make for unexpected turns, twists, welcome--and sometimes unwelcome--adventures.   In this instance we had a few of both...totally missing St. Fiachra's Garden.  Lunch, however, was wonderful!



The Black Abbey on the grounds of the Stud--One of many "Black Abbeys" in Ireland.  This dates from 1169 but, once again, was taken out of business during the Reformation.

The rain that had plagued us most of the day let up and we began our drive to Kilkenny where we had reserved a B&B.  The drive was easy until the two roundabouts at the edge of Kilkenny, the second of which threw us into the midst of Kilkenny's Arts Festival and the most narrow street we had yet experienced.  It was so full of cars we were at a standstill, but we could, at least, ask a friendly Garda (police officer) for directions to Butler Court--our B&B.  We were close (thank heavens) and, once we could move and negotiate yet another U-Turn, we drove right to it.



After we walked through the gates of Butler Court and had been approved by Bob, the Greeter Dog, the most welcome words we heard all day came from Yvonne, our host.  "Pull your car into the "No Parking" spot in front, we'll unload your luggage, and then you can park it.  You won't have to drive again until you leave.  No one drives in Kilkenny!"  This last may have been an exaggeration as cars were streaming past in the nearby street, but we believed her and complied immediately.  Day One of our Ireland driving experience and both we and the Micra were in one piece.  Thank you, Lord!  Yvonne and John of Butler Court are expert at making their guests feel at home immediately, and we were ready to settle in for our two night stay...which quickly became three nights after we reassessed the situation.
   

The view from our room.  Despite the trees, poles, roofs and antennas I thought this was great!  I'd always had delusions that I was "to the manor born" and this was as close as I would ever get.  Loved it! 

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