Although we hated to leave, we packed our car and waved good-bye to our Kilkenny hosts. We tried our very best to follow their directions through town and, after a brief north/south misunderstanding, found ourselves driving toward the Rock of Cashel. This historic and religious site has earned three triangles from Rick Steves, which is high praise indeed, and was on our list of "must see's." This is the rock upon which St. Patrick (yes--that St. Patrick) baptized King Aengus about 450 CE. St. Patrick, carried away by the moment, accidentally stabbed the King's foot (all the way through) with his crozier. The King, thinking it was part of the ritual, didn't say a word. Frankly, I don't know...but I've heard that story three times and read it once. That may not make it true, but does make it tradition.
I would have to agree that the Rock of Cashel is less than impressive wrapped with scaffolding and plastic sheeting. It's better from a few miles distance. But, this is as good as it gets for the near future. The Rock is a collection of buildings--The Vicars Choral, St. Patrick's Cross, a Chapel, a Cathedral, a Castle, a Graveyard with a Round Tower. It's all packed onto the top of this not-so-large outcropping of rock resulting in a bit of a muddle, but everything placed as it should be.
As we waited for our tour to begin, we wandered the nearby grounds. I think this is what my mother would have called "a soft day" in which one experiences a bit of drizzle while clouds in the distance drift from the heavens to earth. We're overlooking the Plain of Tipperary, which is described as extremely fertile farmland. In St. Patrick's day, he would have only seen oak forests.
As our tour began, our soft day disintegrated into a cold, windy and rainy day. We pulled our jackets closer and followed our guide. Over the course of our trip we visited many of the OPW (Office of Public Works) sites, and always came away marveling at the tour guides we met. We agreed they had to have been history, public speaking and/or drama majors. They were exceptionally knowledgeable about their sites, never hesitating to provide an answer--sometimes long and involved--to all questions, and ready to throw in a theory or two from their own research. We came away from each stop enthusiastic about the experience. The photo above is an entry into the Cathedral. There is little shelter available during the conservation process (most roofs are gone), so very few pictures.
After a leisurely lunch (we were never in a hurry to take up the driving challenge again), we drove south toward Kinsale, our destination for the night. Kinsale is located on a strategic harbor opening into the Atlantic. I had read it was a charming town (and it is) but also surprisingly historic. We had reservations at "The Old Presbytery", the B&B pictured above. It's a maze inside, but beautiful if you enjoy old homes--which we do. Noreen runs the B&B and stands ready with tea at all times of day, while Philip produces the perfect breakfast. BC could hardly eat his morning egg--he just wanted to admire it.
The next morning, we met Don. A Kinsale native, Don (and his partner Barry) lead daily tours of Kinsale, urging willing tourists (who don't pay until the tour is over) up, down, here and there through the older sections of the town. His historic map is ever at the ready, his tales are entertaining, and he's just a fun person to be around. He left us itching for more, so after a short break, we began the trek to Charles Fort.
Who knew that Charles Fort was uphill all the way, but it took us through an area of Kinsale (winding above the harbor) that we wouldn't have seen otherwise. We walked past beautiful homes--some startlingly contemporary--colorful gardens, and gorgeous glimpses of the harbor. We puffed and panted uphill for hours (perhaps an exaggeration) but I was reassured we were on the right path as we approached Bulman's Pub. (BC and I read different sections of the guidebook--Mine lean toward eating and drinking.) "Please?" I gasped. "Just one little half-pint? Please?" But, BC was on a mission. Sadly, we left Bulman's behind and continued the climb to the fort.
When we arrived about fifteen minutes later, we enjoyed an energetic and informative tour, interesting video presentation and quality time in the museum. I thought the fort was well preserved and nicely presented--in comparison to others we'd seen. It's a star-shaped fort...similar to Fort Ticonderoga in New York and St. Augustine, Florida's, Castillo de San Marcos. And, I know--that's why it's here--the harbor views were beautiful.
Ah! Now we get to go downhill, and even BC is ready for a bit of Guinness. Following the lead of the rest of the customers, we took our glasses and walked out to the seawall to soak in the sun (Yes! Sun!) and yet another wonderful view.
Within a few minutes, a small fishing boat pulled up to the seawall and this Earnest Hemingway look-alike began to climb the ladder, tossing fishing gear up and over the edge, and finally appearing, lugging a bucket containing three sea-bass. BC was ecstatic and visited with him for a half-hour, looking at his fish, studying his gear, and checking his bait. Fishermen never run out of conversation!
Kinsale is a beautiful little County Cork town, known as a tourist destination and gourmet center. It is, like its Irish counterparts, populated by friendly folk eager to answer questions, advise on travels, and quick to offer a complimentary pint. It was a favorite.
1 comment:
Kinsale makes my must see list now!
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